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From Heera Mandi to Bazaar- i- Husn, Pakistan's red- light districts teeter on the cusp of extinction - Pakistan. Despite the fall of the Mughals, red light areas and their court heritage found patronage from the Raj.

The British colonisers found these places exotic and exciting — dance, music, style and seduction from the Orient gave birth to tales that spread far and wide. Over the years, red- light districts have been squeezed and suffocated. EOS revisits four bustling cantonments that the Raj patronised to discover a Mughal- era tradition that is on the cusp of extinction. Click on the tabs below to explore Pakistan's red light districts. The diamond of Lahore has dulled.

Old properties in Heera Mandi have been renovated and reused as restaurants and other shops. Photos by Xari Jalil and Murtaza Ali, M Arif / White Star. I still remember my first time,” says Jugnu*, her face pale under the white tubelight of her cramped room. I was only 1. 3 but was dressed to the nines.

I wore jewellery and makeup, and even though I was told I looked beautiful, I felt shy and embarrassed and did not want to go dance.”Jugnu’s paternal aunt, who was a dancer like Jugnu but had retired by then, had a talk with her niece to settle her nerves. She said, this is our family profession and that our women had been doing it for ages. Why should I feel ashamed of it? As she spoke, something inside me began to melt. Slowly I felt much better.”She remembers entering the small room called the ‘time- kamra’ or ‘office’.

Two or three ‘tamashbeen’ [spectators] sat there, while her own troupe — the musicians and her aunt — accompanied her. It was a small private baithak [gathering], and once Jugnu began her dance she forgot all her fears. I don’t remember which song I danced to,” she grins, flashing paan- stained teeth under her dark lips. But I do remember it was Madam’s song.” Aside from being a red- light area, Heera Mandi was once renowned for culture and courtship in the Mughal tradition. Like all dancing girls in the Shahi Mohallah, or specifically in the red light district called Heera Mandi, there is a money- throwing ritual at dance performances.

Back in those days, the going rate for a new dancer would have been around 4. But Jugnu danced so well that she herself got around 2,5. That means Rs. 25,0.

We always distribute equally after a baithak.” Jugnu still retains her attraction but has become a little plump, after bearing two children with different men – which can be a downfall for dancing girls. It is possible to think that this woman could have done better by making a living out of dancing. But after official sanction against red light districts, her family, like many others, moved away to another neighbouring area known as Baagh Munshi Ladda.

It is now also known as the ‘new Heera Mandi’ although nothing in the new locality is reminiscent of the old area. To call it a baagh [garden] is an overstatement, however. Watch Boy Wonder Online Boy Wonder Full Movie Online.

Jugnu’s own house is windowless and grotty. With four children and three adults as occupants, it is in a constant state of disarray. Her room is cramped and empty but for a whirring pedestal fan, a very thin and stained mattress and pillow, and tiny oil lamps sitting in a row on a bare concrete shelf. For Jugnu’s mother Zeba*, who is from Gujrat but was married to a man known only superficially to her father, it was a shock to discover that her in- laws were from a paisha [vocation] that was considered taboo.

But in Kanjar families, daughters- in- law are not meant to carry on the tradition of singing and dancing,” says Zeba, now 4. So my other two daughters were trained in singing, but they both died. Now I only have Jugnu.” There are two majority communities who reside and work in Heera Mandi. One of them is the Kanjars, whose women carry on the tradition of singing and dancing. The other is Mirasis — musicians and trainers of the Kanjar women.

Irrespective of whether they sell their bodies, however, Kanjar women are viewed as prostitutes even though that might not always be the case. A girl’s birth brings celebrations,” says Zeba. When a boy is born, however, there is sorrow. Even today, it is Jugnu who is the breadwinner of this family. She is taking care of her own children as well as her sisters. Her brother only earns daily wages.”Like all Kanjar women, Jugnu too has been ‘married’ but without a nikahnama [certificate of marriage]. She has had a business contract with the three or four men she married, which she says lasts for a night in return for a large sum of money.

My father arranged it with a gold businessman the first time, and he paid around 3. Even our servants were paid 5,0. I was only 1. 3 and embarrassed, hurt and scared. But I got over it fast.” Like all such men, that businessman too did not return.“It was not easy for a man to come too close to a woman in a kotha back in those days,” she says. We were surrounded by our tabla player, sheesha player, dhol wala, naika [a senior woman chaperone], and the flower man would come and so did the money seller,” she says. There was a courtship ritual in getting to know the woman first and then coming closer.

The man could not just use and abuse. We were protected by our community.”A regal fixation. Even today, the idea of Heera Mandi remains as exotic as ever to most.

Many believe that even now, they might catch a sight of some dancing girls or perhaps hear a mujra in the distance. It seems thrilling and adventurous, tinged with the secrecy of illicit excitement. Other old properties have been put up for sale.─Photos by Xari Jalil and Murtaza Ali, M Arif / White Star. But today, a trip down the lane opposite the regal Badshahi Mosque and the Lahore Fort shows that the age- old culture of the bazaar has vanished.

In its place now are shoe shops and warehouses, many of them manufacturing set- ups. All the buildings which once used to be kothas are now decrepit, dusty skeletons. The time- kamra is now just home to piles of sawdust and leather.

Local culture and music are important for all civilisations,” says Mian Yousuf Salahuddin, better known as Yousuf Salli. But the way ours was killed off, it is indeed a very tragic thing.”Salli lives smack in the centre of the Taxali gate area. His ancestral Haveli Barood Khana was originally built by the Sikhs during their rule in Punjab and was meant for storing gun- powder, weapons and ammunition, hence its name.

But after the first Muslim mayor of Lahore, Mian Amiruddin, bought it in 1.